Tuesday, February 5, 2013

Final Baja Jones Winter Whale Season Report 2012


Here is the final Baja Jones Winter Whale Season report for the 2012 season:

Hi everyone, the gray whale migration this year was terrific for those of us whale watching at the Baja nursery lagoons.  Every one of the three bays had hundreds to thousands of whales present inside the lagoons.  



For those of you who don't know, there are three protected bays or lagoons on the West Coast of Baja California, Mexico where the Gray whales migrate to each year from the cold Arctic water of the Bering Sea.  While not all the whales go inside the lagoons, normally about 10 to 15% of the gray whale population does go inside the lagoons each year; to give birth or to mate or perhaps just to rest before beginning the long swim north.

This year there were more than 750 baby whales inside Laguna Ojo de Liebre the northernmost of the gray whale lagoons and located on latitude 28.  Laguna Ojo de Liebre is a large bay with lots of shallow water, but a few deep channels and holes.  The whales like to swim in the currents that flow in the deeper channels as the tide flows in or out of the bay.

San Ignacio Lagoon had a couple hundred baby whales this season.  San Ignacio lagoon is the location that most magazines and newspapers choose to write stories about.  It is the middle lagoon in location and the smallest in size.



Magdalena Bay also had a couple hundred baby whales this year.  Magdalena Bay is the most southern of the 3 lagoons.  Because of this the weather is usually a little bit warmer and in general nicer than at the other two locations.  This is the nearest lagoon to La Paz and to Cabo San Lucas.

Between the three lagoons there were more than 1,000 confirmed baby gray whale births this year.  This is a large number almost double the "average" number of counted baby whale births.  

What I noticed this year was that there seemed to be fewer adult whales inside the lagoon engaged in mating activity.  It will be interesting to see what the baby whale count is next year.  Perhaps a lot of mating activity took place outside in the open ocean, rather than inside the protected lagoons as it usually does.

That concludes my report for the end of the 2012 season.  Until next year enjoy good whale watching wherever you may go.


Keith Jones
Baja Jones Adventure Travel
office phone in USA: 562-889-4016
Skype ID: bajajones
Yahoo messenger ID: rowman1998@yahoo.com

Monday, February 4, 2013

The Mysterious Orient meets Latino Machismo


A tale of modern China



This is true story.  The names of some of those involved have been changed for obvious reasons.

This all began when Antonio Valenzuela, a client of mine arrived in Beijing a few days before the scheduled tour started.  He asked if I knew any pretty Chinese women who might want to go on a date with him.   I’m a simple tour guide, but I get all kinds of requests from clients!

When Antonio called I was sitting in Starbucks inside the Oriental Plaza Mall, on the basement level at Wangfujing Walking Street in Central Beijing, just two long blocks from Tiananmen Square.  Antonio at that time was the Environmental Ambassador for Ecuador.  I thought he would be an interesting man for some Chinese woman to meet.  Hesitating and thinking before committing, then when the silence on the phone had gone on a bit too long, I finally told him, “Sure Antonio I can fix you up.  I’ll get something on for tonight and call you back”

It was a simple matter for me to walk up to the street level of Oriental Plaza.  Then, mocha drink in hand, I strolled slowly north on Wangfujing Walking Street.  Purposely looking lost I stared into shop window, gazed up at the large Times Square – like TV screens on the side of buildings and in general copied the antics of a male tourist alone and slightly bored in Beijing.  It took only a few minutes of this nonsense before three Chinese girls approached me together.  One girl asked “sir, are you busy now?”  Then quickly before I could reply she explained “We are students from Beijing Language University and come here to practice speaking English”.

I told them I had a friend who would be glad to meet and talk English with them, if they wanted to wait a few minutes while he took a taxi from his hotel.  They said “sure, why not” and we walked to the nearby McDonald’s to wait for Antonio to arrive.

While we waited, I talked to them.  Testing the water to see their attitude, I said, “my friend Antonio wants to have a date with a pretty Chinese girl.  But he doesn’t want to go sit in a tea shop and pay $100 for a pot of tea at some tourist scam joint”.  This brought giggles of embarrassment and one girl shyly hid her face behind raised palms, because of course that is the precise scam these nice college girls operate to get spending money. 

One girl whose eyes dark eyes made my heart race answered, “We are modern women, don’t like tea”.  It was still early in April.  She was wearing a pair of black boots, brightly patterned knee socks that came to mid thigh and a short wool Burberry skirt that ended 6 inches short of the top of her stockings and probably cost as much as many Chinese men earn in a month.  My eyes were drawn to her thighs where goose bumps dotted her porcelain skin.

Let me explain about Wangfujing Street and the college students who hang out there.  Frequently these young women take some unsuspecting horny male tourist, who they chat up on the walking street, to a special out of the way tea shop that is located inside one of the big mall stores that line both sides of the kilometer long Wangfujing Walking Street.  Because the tea shop is inside an expensive and busy shopping mall the men feel safe going there with the girls they have just met.  These naïve men actually think a 20 year old Chinese girl that they just met wants nothing more than to talk to them. 

There, the prices in this tea shop are incredibly high.  The menu is in Mandarin.  The girls point to some things, but are sly about pulling the menu back before the unsuspecting mark can see the printed price.  Once a pot of tea is brought to the table, they talk for a few minutes.  Then the girls will mention, “Bob, we’re hungry would you order a fruit plate?  By now, the girls have cast their spell and Bob thinks he has made a conquest.   Playing the big shot, who is going to score with this foreign chick, Bob readily agrees to their seemingly innocent request.

After the girls have run a tab up to $100 or $200 U.S. dollars, one of the them will glance at her watch and demurely point to it.  “Oh, look” she might say “it is late, class will start soon.” 

The bill is brought to the table then and the tourist who was thinking sex instead of scam is presented with a bill, that in clearly written English sends a shock through him as he ineptly tries to figure out just how many dollars or euros the bill is.  He stares at the total of 1,200 Yuen, and finally asks the girls “what is this amount in dollars?  This cannot be right!”

The girls then speak in Chinese to the waiter and tell Bob “1,200 yuen, the waiter says that will be $180 in U.S. dollars. 

Bob the horny tourist might at first get angry and shout he will not pay that.  If he refuses to pay, the girls tell him the manager will call the police and he will then be taken to the police station.  The manager appears about this time.  He speaks strongly accented English and will angrily point to the menu to show the now nervous and angry Bob each item on the menu and the price that is clearly marked there.  Eventually Bob will pay and leave.   He will be a little bit wiser and a whole lot poorer.

I told the three girls that if they wanted to hang out for a couple hours, let Antonio buy them a nice lunch and see if one of them liked him enough to go out with him on a real date, then we would go have a nice lunch and just talk.  One girl bailed out then.  She was only at Wangfujing to troll for foreign men to sucker into sitting at the tea shop with her.  The other two girls stayed with me and waited for Antonio.

When he arrived, I introduced Antonio (don’t call me Tony) to my new “friends” and told him that I would stay and have lunch with the three of them, but that then I had to leave.  I asked Antonio if he was okay with this arrangement and he said yes.  I asked if he was okay buying lunch for the four of us and he agreed to that also.

When he arrived, I introduced Antonio (don’t call me Tony) to my new “friends”.  Then I got to the point.   “Antonio, if you want to buy lunch for the four of us, we can sit and talk and get you hooked up for tonight”.  He smiled and agreed.

I know a locals style restaurant just off Wangfujing that serves terrific food and is always crowded with local people, not tourists.  After getting seated, I started to order, but Antonio interrupted me.  “Why don’t you let the girls order” he said.  I hesitated, because I knew that might be a mistake, but I didn’t really care too much because he was paying. 

I handed the menu to the girls.  “Order lunch for us, but please don’t order anything made with the feet, heads or stomachs of animals” They started up a long conversation with the waitress.  Pointing, then discussing their choice.  I could tell they were ordering enough food for 10 people, but Antonio was running this show and paying the tab, so I just sat and enjoyed the view across the table.

Lunch dragged on for two hours as dish after dish came out of the kitchen.  The girls were pleasant to talk to and had fairly good English skills so it was a nice way to spend a lazy Beijing afternoon.  Soon nobody was eating, just tasting the food.  Eventually the waitress had piled 12 different dishes on the table.  Dumplings, fish, pork, and some things that really don’t have English names.  Antonio’s eyes bulged when he saw the total on the bill.  But he paid up and we stood to leave.

That’s when Antonio said “Keith something has come up and I must return to the hotel”.  “Wait” I replied, “what about making plans for your date?”  “I cannot do that now” he said, then he just left me and the two girls standing there.  I told them thanks for a nice lunch and we parted ways.  I headed for the subway and they walked back to Wangfujing Street, to sell a lesson in Chinese and a pot of $100 tea, to some unsuspecting foreigner.

Later I saw Antonio at the hotel and asked him what happened, why had he left so abruptly?  “
“Jeez,” I said. “Two pretty, smart and very friendly Chinese girls to choose from and you just walked away.”  His face twisted into a grimace of distaste as I finished talking.  “I wasted my morning helping you, what’s the problem?”

Antonio looked at me and as serious as could be said “those girls had crooked teeth. I could never date a girl with crooked teeth”.  I laughed, thinking he was joking with me.  Those girls were both sexy and the one in particular was gorgeous.  He said “It’s not funny, Keeeees.  Their teeth were crooked”.

Then he had the nerve to ask me if I knew any other Chinese girls.  “Maybe you know some other women who have nice teeth” he said.   Of course I did.  But I wasn’t sure I wanted to put any of my friends together with this strange person. We were standing in the middle of the hotel lobby at the time.  I don’t know why, but finally I decided that my friend Helen was smart and plenty able to handle herself.  Helen is from Inner Mongolia originally, but was able to get accepted into and then graduate from the Beijing Foreign Language University with a degree in English.   She had left the plains of Mongolia far behind her.  Now she worked as a freelance translator for foreign companies while searching for a rich husband.

I called Helen and explained that this guy was a little bit strange, but rich and a diplomat and not married.  I told her how lunch had ended.  She thought about it and decided it would be worth the effort.  I suggested that we meet at the entrance to Oriental Plaza on Wangfujing Street at 7:00 PM.  I would sit and have a drink at Starbucks with the two of them.  If Helen felt comfortable going out on a date with this guy, I would leave them.

When she arrived at Starbucks, Helen was dressed to kill.  5” spike heels, a very short ruffled hem skirt and nice shiny earrings.  Her teeth were gleaming white and straight enough she could model for some dental advertisement.  Helen and Antonio seemed to get along okay, so I left.

Later, back in my room at the hotel, reading a book and listening to music from my laptop my cell phone rang.  It was 10:30 PM.  The caller was Helen.  “KEEEEth” she yelled, “that man is a creep”.  Then she hung up on me.  I sat on the edge of the bed for a couple minutes wondering what that was all about, then laid back down to sleep and dream about a distant beach, with soft white sand and coconut palms swaying in the wind.

The next morning I ran into Antonio as I left the hotel on my way to Starbucks.  He asked if he could come along.  Once we were settled in at Starbucks, Antonio told me his tale of the happenings from the night before.

Antonio is a professional photographer, as well as some kind of lower level diplomat.  He explained that he decided to take night photos of Wangfujing Street.  He didn’t think Helen would mind waiting and maybe translating for him, if he needed a translator.  As we sat at Starbucks earlier, he had promised to take her to a nice dinner at Houhai Lake and maybe some drinks and dancing afterwards.  He had said nothing about a marathon photo taking session at night in the freezing cold night air.

Antonio told his side of this tale to me as we sat in the basement level of Starbuck’s.  I watched the thousands of workers rushing from the subway, past Starbuck’s and then up to the street level where they would scatter to a hundred different stores and cafes.  Antonio said that after taking a few photos on Wangfujing Street, Helen suggested they get a drink at the Beijing Bar.  This is a tiny bar, one half block off Wangfujing Street and dedicated to Street Scamming Girls who bring guys in there to buy $100 bottles of Great Wall Wine just like some girls do with the $100 pots of tea.  (You can buy that wine for $5 - $10 US anywhere in Beijing)

Antonio said, “We ordered some drinks and talked for a few minutes.  Then Helen ordered a bottle of wine, we talked some more.  Then we ordered two more mixed drinks.  After they had been there about an hour, Helen asked me to get another bottle of wine.”  Antonio’s face was getting a bit red as he talked to me and his Spanish accent became more pronounced.   He said, “I asked for the menu and saw that damned wine was $100 a bottle.  I asked Helen why she bought that expensive wine.  She would not answer me.  That bitch just walked out and left me there!” 

By then, I was confused about what happened and a little nervous because this guy was my client and I would be with him for the next 11 days.  As I sat there sipping at my coffee, he asked me why I had set him up with a woman who would rob him that way.  I didn’t really have an answer.  “Antonio, look I wasn’t there and I’ve never been to the Beijing Bar, so I don’t know why this happened.  I’m sorry you feel like you were ripped off.”   I certainly wasn’t going to accept responsibility for his not reading the wine list or failing to ask the price of a martini.  And I knew Helen would never have robbed somebody I introduced her to, at least not without a very good reason.

Now on the other hand, I was pissed off at Helen when I heard this story and just couldn’t understand why she did that.  An hour later after Antonio and I had parted ways at the subway entrance, Helen called.  She gave me a different view of the previous evening’s events.

It seems Antonio didn’t really want a date.  He wanted a translator.  At 8:00 PM they left Starbucks and he set up his camera and tripod out on Wangfujing Walking Street and began framing and shooting photos.  Helen stood there and waited patiently for the first 30 minutes.  Then asked if they were going to dinner soon.  Antonio said he needed a few more photos.

30 minutes later, Helen told me that her feet were bothering her from standing in one place on the cold concrete..  She was cold, because it was April in Beijing and the temperature was 35 degrees Fahrenheit. When 9:30 passed, Helen insisted that they walk up the street, where she told Antonio he would find a beautiful church that was nice to photograph at night.

The church is on the same intersection as the Beijing Bar.  Antonio ran around the plaza by the church for a while taking photos like a crazy man and completely ignoring Helen.  By now, Helen was very cold, hungry, angry and feeling completely ignored.  She stomped her feet a couple times, pouted at Antonio and told him he had to take her into the Beijing Bar to get warmed up.  Reluctantly he agreed to end his photo session and they entered the bar where Helen proceeded to order a vodka collins and Antonio ordered a martini. 

Helen asked Antonio where they would go to dinner.  He told her that this was his last opportunity to take night photos of Beijing and he didn’t think he had time to take her to dinner.  This really made Helen angry.  She felt used and taken advantage of.  So speaking in Mandarin to the waiter she arranged to get a commission from the Beijing Bar for whatever Antonio spent.  When the manager had agreed to the commission, Helen then ordered the first bottle of Great Wall wine at $100 from the special menu.  Five minutes later, since Antonio wasn’t buying her dinner either, she ordered the $75 plate of fruit.

What’s the moral of this story?  Maybe there really isn’t one, but I have a couple thoughts:

1.  Don’t ever set up a blind date between a South American diplomat and someone whose friendship you value.  It is sure to backfire.

2.  Don’t treat a pretty Chinese woman badly, if you don’t want to pay the price.    Antonio spent $300 trying to get a date with a Chinese girl!

3.  Helen remains a good friend who would never rob a friend of mine. . . unless he left her standing in the cold for a couple hours.

4.  Antonio sent me an invitation to a book publishing party in his homeland in South America.  This party was for the publication of an oversized glossy coffee table book of China images that came out about one year after his misadventure with Helen. 

I did not attend the party.  There were no photos of Helen in that book



AFTERWORD



Helen is pictured on the left.

Antonio shall remain forever faceless and nameless in this tale.

Wangfujing Walking Street remains the easiest place in Beijing for a single man to meet a pretty Chinese woman.  Just don’t drink the tea!  Instead take your new acquaintance to KFC, sit on the second floor by the window.  There you can watch other guys get hooked into that $100 tea party.

The Beijing Bar is still there.  If a pretty Chinese girl asks you to buy her a drink at the Beijing Bar, grab your wallet and run.

The Oriental Plaza remains an overpriced shopping mall where rich Hong Kong and Beijing businessmen take their mistresses to buy them Western name brands at double the real price.

Starbucks is the only place to get de-caf coffee in Beijing.  The Oriental Plaza Starbucks is a terrific place to girl watch at 8:00 AM as all the shop clerks come off the subway and walk through the mall on their way to work.


The end

By

Keith Jones
Beijing, China

Tuesday, January 29, 2013

I Stalk a Leopard in the Mountains of China


Sichuan Province, China


When preparing for my first trip to the Wolong Panda Breeding Preserve, which is located several hours drive from Chengdu, in the Sichuan Province of China, I learned that leopards inhabit the forest around the Panda Preserve.  The elevation is around 1,500 meters.  A combination of Pine, hardwood and bamboo forests cover the slopes of the steep sided river valley where the panda preserve is located.  The date was October 31, 2005, when I arrived there.

Seeing a leopard in the wild has been on my list of things to do for some time, so I decided to prepare for the panda trip as if I would also be going out to stalk leopards.

Since leopards are nocturnal I packed an assortment of nighttime camouflage gear.  I packed away a black knit ski hat that rolls down to cover my face, a dark black fleece hood, black gloves, and dark blue and black waterproof outerwear.


One day while talking with our van driver, Ted, I learned that in the darkest hours of the night from 9:00 PM to Midnight drivers sometimes see leopards crossing the main road that runs between the nearest town of Wolong and the Panda Garden.  In fact, Ted told me had just seen a leopard around 9:00 or 10:00 P.M. the night before.  It had crossed the road only a mile up the mountain from the Panda Inn. 
This was exciting news.  I was determined to go out that very evening and stalk this wild leopard.
 
The Panda Inn management locks the front door to the hotel and the main gate to the grounds surrounding the hotel at midnight.  I figured I had a two or three hour search window, from around 9:00 PM until just before midnight. 
    
When they heard me discussing my plan with our guide, some members of the Panda encounter group asked if they could go along.  I was concerned for their safety.  It seemed too dangerous to take someone else along with me. 

To avoid the chance that I would get talked into taking someone else along, I just told the group that I didn’t think I would go out.  But then after dinner I advised Jai, our Chinese translator & local guide, that I would be going out for a walk that night.  I promised her I would be back by midnight, before the doors were locked for the evening. 

Jai is a city girl and was concerned about me going out alone.  Earlier in the day, while doing a day hike, Jai became just a little bit frightened when a group of 3 wild pigs ran through the underbrush near our hiking trail.  Jai (pronounced Jaw) heard the pigs rustling in the underbrush 50 yards from us, down by the Pitaio River.  She looked concerned and asked me what was making the noise. 

I whispered for Jai to be quiet and said “I don’t know what’s there, but let’s wait and see, maybe it is a Golden talken”.



 But the noise proved to be the work of a wild boar and two females who moved closer to us in the brush and then suddenly burst from the underbrush on a second trail perhaps 5 meters from our position.

Jai screamed and grabbed my arm while moving to hide behind me, as if those three wild pigs were monsters in a sci-fi movie.
For the remainder of that hike Jai would not leave my side.  As we finished the one hour hike, she walked so close, I sometimes felt her bump my back if I stopped too quickly. 

So now, while trying to calm Jai’s fears for my safety in the night, (she felt responsible for my safety) I told her some stories about past solo mountain adventures I have been on.  I meant to calm her worries, but I think my stories just made her even more apprehensive.  Moving toward the door that opened into the cold night air, I promised once again to be back before the doors were locked at midnight.
  
It was cold that night in the mountain valley.  The elevation is about 4,500 feet and this was early November.  The weather had been turbulent and rainy before our group arrived in Wolong, but upon our arrival a period of nice days and cold nights settled in.  The leaves on the hardwood trees had begun to turn red and amber but were just now beginning to shed their leaves.  This made for some pretty daytime scenery.


Stalking a leopard   



Just up the road a few miles from the Panda Garden there was a thick layer of snow on the ground and in the forests that would just keep growing deeper with each passing storm, until spring came once again.  I knew that the temperature would drop well below freezing by midnight. 

I layered up with two thicknesses of thermal underwear, a heavy polar fleece outer layer, a second layer of fleece outer pants and then my waterproof gear.  It wasn’t raining, but the waterproof gear would keep the wind and night mist out.  Sitting in one spot for hours on end in cold weather can be very uncomfortable if you don’t have the proper clothing.



Preparing for a night in the forest.

1.  Under layer of moisture wicking long underwear that has Spandex and is form fitting.
2.  Second layer of lightweight warm long underwear.
3.  mid layer of black polyester fleece.
4.  Outer layer of dark midnight blue Goretex coat and pants.
5.  In addition to the black wool hat in this photo, I also work a black balaclava that could be pulled down over my face.
6.  I am told that when my granddaughter saw this photo she started to cry. She was 11 at the time.

To avoid attracting attention when I left the hotel, the black hood, gloves and ski mask were stuffed inside my jacket as I exited through the front lobby.  I had my Nikon D70 digital camera slung over my left shoulder, as I always do.  As ready as I was ever going to be, I casually sauntered out of the hotel at 8:30 P.M. 
  
There were some local people gathered under the lights near the hotel entrance when I exited the hotel lobby.  They were waiting for rides up the road to the town of Wolong where they live.  I walked slowly uphill past them and toward the town of Wolong, away from the lights of the hotel and the Panda Preserve.
  
As I walked from beneath the direct glare of the streetlights, I realized that the night was as black as it could possibly be.  The sky was thoroughly clouded over.  There would be no starlight to guide my leopard stalking efforts.

After walking into the dark away from the lights to the point where I could no longer see the road beneath my feet, I stepped off the shoulder of the road to take a few minutes while my night vision adjusted.  Ten minutes later, everything was still black around me.  I couldn’t see anything ahead of me uphill, just the glow of the hotel lights behind me.
   
I began to walk up the road once more.  Not being able to see the ground beneath me, I took each step cautiously.  With each careful step away from the hotel I felt just a little bit more insecure.  Stalking a hungry leopard in a night so dark that I couldn’t see my own shoes became less appealing with every footstep away from the friendly glow of the Panda Inn lights.

Fifteen minutes of this slow uphill stroll and I felt a tingling sensation running down my spine, into my stomach.  It wasn’t sweat.  I felt as if someone – or something was watching me.  The back of my neck had a tingling feeling to it.  My pace seemed to slow a little bit with each additional step uphill.  Now each stride of my double insulated Danner hunting boots was carefully measured.  Each boot set slowly onto the concrete roadway as if I were sneaking up the roadside.  My ears strained to hear the slightest sound.  My hands, unseen in the pure black night, waved in front of me.  I used the edge of the concrete roadway as my guide.

Another 20 minutes of this slow walking brought me to where I thought I was near the site Ted the Driver had shown me he spotted the leopard crossing the road.  Since most animals stick to pre-set hunting paths I wanted to be near to, but off of this big cats expected path to the Pitiao River.
   
I chanced flashing my headlamp around, damaging my night vision, but allowing me to find a big rock to hide alongside of.  The rock was surrounded by heavy underbrush and was positioned far enough off the road that I wouldn’t be visible to any passing cars. 
   
I sat down on the moist earth, turned off the headlamp and wiggled around to make a soft depression for the cold wait ahead of me.  My butt was comfortably wrapped in fleece and Goretex so the cold damp earth was only a minor annoyance.
   
Quietly I slipped the knit facemask and black balaclava down over my shiny white face.  I pulled the warm black fleece hood over that and then last of all I pulled on a pair of black Goretex gloves.  As I tugged the gloves on I realized I couldn’t see them.  Waving a hand around just inches from my face, I couldn’t see any movement.  I could feel the cold air moving, I knew the hand was there, but it was invisible.
    
Ten minutes later I tried waving my hand again.  Still nothing.  This night was so dark I could have been inside a cave.  Although I had taken a shower before leaving, using no soap or deodorant to give me a scent, I began to feel like an unfortunate goat staked out as leopard bait.

I now realized that tingling gnawing sensation that had been coursing up and down my spine for the last 40 minutes was fear.  Every little sound in the night was amplified.  Innocent sounds of mice carrying seeds to their nests were transmuted in my mind.  Every leaf rattle became the sound of a leopard paw brushing against a branch.  Every rustle of a nocturnal rodent going about his nightly chores became the sound of a leopard stalking closer to me.
   
I pushed my back hard against the rock that protected me from behind.  I held my hands in a Kung fu-like position in front of me, the better to stop the attacking leopard from clamping down on my raspy throat.  The night felt thick like chocolate pudding around me.
Stalking a leopard – Page six

The 8” wooden chopstick that I had taken from the dining room earlier that day and then patiently sharpened to a point on the concrete roadway, didn’t seem like much of a leopard deterrent anymore.  What was I thinking?  What rational person would think he could defend himself against a 150 pound snow leopard with just an 8” chopstick?
   
I had recently studied a poorly mounted leopard at the Wolong Panda Museum.  I could remember quite clearly the long and pointy teeth that leopards use when hunting serow, taiken, wild pig and the occasional stupid human leopard stalker. 
  
The night was quite cold by that time, but I could feel hot sweat trickling down my spine.  It was almost 10:30 PM.  A dozen leopards could already have passed me and I wouldn’t have seen them in the thick darkness that surrounded me.
  
So why was I still sitting there, huddled against the big cold rock?  I guess I was trying to prove to myself that I’m not afraid of the dark.  Whatever the reason I watched the white radioactive luminous hands of my wristwatch move to precisely 10:45. 
    
Suddenly, with no forethought I just stood up, turned on the headlamp and headed down the road toward the distant glow that was the Panda Inn.  I had no idea I was going to do that.  It was like spontaneous combustion.  One minute I was pressed against the big rock and the next I just began moving.  I didn’t run, not exactly, but that 35 minute uphill walk only took me 10 minutes going back down the hill.
  
The warm glow of the streetlights outside the Panda Inn was certainly a welcome sight.  As I entered the bright lights outside the Inn, I slowed my quick step to a casual saunter.  Before stepping inside the hotel lobby, I removed the black knit cap, the black balaclava, the black gloves and then placing a big smile on my face I opened the door and stepped into the welcoming warmth of the Panda Inn.
  
In the morning I casually mentioned to the group that I had gone out for a little walk the night before.  I told them it was too dark to see anything, so I gave up.  I left out the part about the funny tingling sensation running up and down my spine.  I guess I shortened the time that I said I was out there because I didn’t really want to admit that for a brief 2 hour period that night I had struggled with fear of the dark.  And I surely didn’t want to admit that I practically ran back to the hotel.
   
It’s good to see a scary movie once in a while.  I think it might even be therapeutic to scare yourself just a little bit in real life too. 

Following this first visit to the Wolong Panda Preserve I returned another 20 times before a horrendous earthquake devastated the Sichuan Province and destroyed most of the Wolong Panda Preserve.  On May 12, 2008 only three weeks after my last visit to the preserve in April, the massive earthquake struck.

Buildings were toppled, trees fell, boulders rolled onto roads and through building roofs and into the Pitaio river.  Mountainsides collapsed; the only road leading to the panda preserve was destroyed becoming nearly impassable. 

Some foreign visitors were trapped there for a brief time.  Some Chinese visitors and students on their way home from the preserve were killed or injured.  Five of the Wolong Panda Preserve staff died.  One panda, 9 year old Mao Mao the mother of five pandas, was killed when an enclosure wall fell on her.

This tragedy will be remembered for a long time to come.  Three years after the earthquake I finally convinced myself that I should re-visit Wolong.

But next year I think I’ll stalk that leopard from the passenger seat of a slow moving car while Ted steers us up the highway.

The End
by
Keith Jones
Sichuan Province, China

Friday, January 25, 2013

In Search of the Giant Wild Panda in the Qinling Mountains


A big hike in search of Wild Giant Pandas

The trip comments  below are from my Wild Panda search the week of July 20, 2006.  We can set this trip up for you, with a recommendation that you stay a minimum of 5 nights, but a full week is really advised.


    
Our trip really begins when we stop at a roadside inn for lunch.  Jane our very attractive
translator, leaves the table and slips into a room across from where we are eating.  She enters that room a stylish and classy Chinese woman who could be dressed for business most anywhere in the world.  She comes out dressed in military style camo clothing and heavy duty hiking boots.  She is now G.I. Jane.  
   
After lunch we drive up the narrow and winding mountain road another 30 minutes and then stop and begin unloading.  Several local people stand around the car waiting.  We have reached the trailhead.  Jane advises us that the local people will carry our packs.  At first I hesitate, then I decide to go along with the game plan they have laid out.  Later, I'm glad I let someone more accustomed to the elevation and steep trail carry my pack.  

The hike to the campsite takes about 6 hours.  We travel about 15 miles horizontally and make a vertical climb of 3,000 feet.  Much of the hike is exceedingly steep.  I'm really glad I took my own advice and worked out for a couple months on a treadmill while carrying a 50 pound pack.  

My good physical conditioning keeps me in the game all the way.  Even though I'm the oldest one along, by 18 years.  It turns out I'm the second oldest person they know to have made this climb.  I just refuse to believe that 58 is OLD.

Along the way we spot much wildlife including Takin and Jane's first view ever of the Golden Monkeys.  During our week in the mountains we spotted the following wildlife:

Golden Takin
Goral
Serow
rock squirrel
chipmunk
bamboo rat
vole
golden monkeys

It was a very good 5 days of wildlife viewing.  At the end of this article is a detailed mammal sighting list.

There were hundreds of birds.  Some species that stand out were the black pheasant, a sparrow hawk that was the only raptor we spotted, a bustard and so many different small species that flitted in and out of the bamboo, tracking our movements all the time.

We saw several poisonous snakes, no common name, but thankfully a species that is exceedingly shy and was always spotted slithering away into the bamboo.

There were at least a half dozen, maybe a dozen species of bee.  Some tiny ones that hovered and darted about and some really big fat black bumblebees. We also saw a cloud burst of fireflies one evening after dinner.  I hadn't seen fireflies since I was a young child.  They were only seen once.   

Also a shy ground squirrel nested a few yards from the cabin we stayed in.  He came out to eat leftovers that were rinsed from our pans and dishes.
    
Sleeping quarters were tight.  A raised sleeping area provided group sleeping accommodations for about 10 men during the time I was there.  The two women each had a room to themselves.  The door to the outside of our shack was ill fitted and made a horrendous squealing noise each time someone went in or out during the night.  Still, with earplugs and noise reducing headphones I slept very well.
   
Food was cooked and served family style from a couple of big pots.  The camp cook was quite good.  I was pleasantly surprised by his skill and his happy demeanor.  When I made a special request for low sodium, low fat food he just smiled and made me the exact same food as everyone else, but as I requested.

July 20, 2006:
   
Today we're hiking in a conifer forest whose trees are densely packed together.  There is a scattering of deciduous trees spread through the forest.  Beneath the trees, growing luxuriantly in the dark shade is the umbrella bamboo that these pandas love and thrive upon.  The umbrella bamboo is even more dense than the first two days of searching.
  
This dense growth of bamboo and overshadowing trees makes the forest eerily quiet.  The lush green growth sucks up every sound.  The damp and moist earth is a great sound deadener.
   
There are a dozen bee and fly species that constantly hover around us.  Sometimes landing upon us.  They are irritating, but in general don't bite or sting us.  The exception are the cow flies that sometimes bite and draw a drop of blood.  They are slow moving, hovering a few inches away, before choosing the tastiest piece of bare skin to draw blood from.

Moss, fungus and mushrooms grow everywhere.  There is so much moisture in the air that they grow beneath fallen trees, along the trail, in takin poop, and even high in the trees, where we spot some golden monkeys chowing down on the arboreal fungus.
     
I have seen more wildlife on this hike than I have seen on all of my other China trips combined.  There is takin spoor everywhere.  Panda poop is common and we regularly came upon signs of pandas that were only hours old.  

During this panda search only one live wild panda was spotted.  He was moving away and the guide in the lead position spotted his black and white butt waddling quickly into the dense bamboo as we approached.  Does this mean the trip was unsuccessful?  I don't think so.  I cannot guarantee panda sightings on this trek.  

It is difficult to spot them, not impossible and not unlikely, but also not a certainty.  The signs were all around us.  This location has the highest probability of a successful sighting of Giant Panda of any location in the world today.  Researchers regularly make this habitat their locale for study because of the high concentration of pandas here.


This is not an easy hike.  It is a rugged journey that shouldn't be undertaken by anyone not in reasonably good physical condition.  I'm 58 and overweight.  I worked out hard and diligently every day for two months before going and I was glad I had done so.  

To give some perspective to the difficulty level I took along two pair of long pants because I knew my clothing would be wet all the time.  I kept the dry pants for around camp and each morning would slide the slightly soggy, cold and very uncomfortable pants on.  These pants were specially purchased for this trip.  Quick drying, highly puncture resistant, hi-tech fabric that at the end of the trip were so tore up by the bamboo that I threw them away.

I am a veteran of hundreds of hikes and camping expeditions, so there were no surprises for me in terms of how difficult the hike was.  Nor were the living conditions unbearable.  We had a wood cabin to shelter us, which was certainly better than a tent.  The food was excellent and plentiful, which is all you can ask for on a mountain expedition such as this.  

We were accompanied by two extremely skilled trackers, Fung and Jung (pronounced young).  They slipped through the bamboo like ghosts, while I bulled my way through like a crazed Golden Takin.  During our search for wildlife Fung was first to spot the takin and the golden monkey, although I like to think I would have seen them first if I had been in the lead.  He was
quite talented at spotting animals.  Later, after Fung spotted the Golden Monkeys, I spotted both the black pheasant and a Serow first and so I redeemed myself.
    
My overall impression of the trip is that it is a truly fine adventure, but it is not for everyone.  You must be willing to live rough for a week and to hike a tough trail.  If you are up to that challenge, then this wild panda search will probably live in your memory as a top rated hiking adventure.

End

Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Gray Whale Babies - Getting Schooled




This is a continuation of my discussion about baby gray whales. The third article in the series...

Gray whale moms have a lot to teach their offspring before they head out into the open ocean on their northward journey.

The first training we notice inside the lagoons is the strengthening exercises the baby is put through as the mother whale swims against the incoming or outgoing tidal flow. She forces the baby to swim alongside her as he gains strength and stamina.

Next as the baby seemingly plays upon his mother, we notice she will raise up out of the water, causing the baby whale to lay upon her back. This is more serious training, although to the youngster it is just playtime. Learning to stay high upon his mother's back may be the one thing that saves him when a marauding orca pack attacks the mom and baby. His only place to hide, is upon his mother's back.

As the season progresses into mid-February a one or two day phenomenon will usually take place. I have written other times about the "baby breaching school", a time when mother whales seem to show their kid exactly how to jump. This training takes place at a time when most of the baby whales are strong enough to jump nearly clear of the water. This training is something rarely seen because it only occurs for a very brief time.


Another interesting training practice I see inside the lagoon generally takes place from mid-february on. This is when at one location near the bay entrance we see dozens of mother and baby whales surfing in the ocean break along the east shore of the entrance. The mothers actually swim with the baby against the breaking swells. This is serious physical conditioning and trains the young whale to swim and breathe in rough water conditions. I'm convinced those whales swimming in the surf will soon be leaving the lagoon to begin the long swim north.



That's all for this time!



About the Author:

Keith Jones is the founder of Baja Jones Adventures, Jones Adventures, Tigress Tours in Thailand and Butanding Tours in the Philippine Islands and has led thousands of people to Mexico and other interesting locations around the world. He specializes in gray whale tour, blue whale tour, gray and blue whale combo tour, giant panda bear tour, walk a tiger tour, shark tour, African safari tour, African gorilla trek, arctic narwhal tour and Magdalena Bay whale watching tour. He also writes about Baja travel and gray whales. Keith Jones is the author of Gray Whales My Twenty Years of Discovery.

Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Baby Gray Whales: Know A Bit More About Them


I know all of you get excited when you think about baby graywhales. Or at least i think you are probably interested in knowing some things about the babies that you might not read anywhere else (except in my book).
                                                  This is a young baby whale - mouth open
Baby gray whales are usually born beginning around mid-December through late January.

•The chance for survival is greatly enhanced if their mother can arrive at one of the Baja California, west coast nursery lagoons before she gives birth.

Just what are the survival chances for those newborn gray whales? Scientists have only been able make guesses – call them educated guesses based upon a wide range of observations – but still only guesses at this point in time.

The most widely accepted view of survival rates for gray whale babies at the end of one year is perhaps 80% to 90 % survive the first year if they are born inside one of the 3 major nursery lagoons.

That statistic flip-flops and is likely to be only a 10% to 20% survival rate for those unfortunate baby gray whales that are born in the open ocean while the mother is in the process of migrating south. 

                                        This baby gray whale is relatively young, perhaps 2 weeks.

Notice the uniform dark gray color. As the baby ages he will quickly develop light colored scar tissue all over his body from rubbing constantly against his barnacle clad mother. Her barnacles leave surface scratches that turn a lighter gray color.

Another characteristic of the very young gray whale is the shape of his head. Notice there is a hump like shape to the upper head in silhouette. A shape sometimes reminds me of a Chinese pug nosed dog.

I can tell this baby is more than a week old because the pre-natal folds of skin that hang around a newborn baby whale’s face, reminiscent of the breed of dog known as Sharpei, have already filled out. He has grown into those deep folds that are only visible during the first week or so after birth.

Another telling characteristic in this photo is the lack of barnacles. All gray whales begin developing barnacle growth almost as soon as they are born. After 2 weeks the young barnacles are obvious to the naked eye. In this photo I cannot see any developing barnacles.

My guess is this photo is of a baby whale between 7 and 15 days old.




Monday, January 21, 2013

Blue Whale Trip in the Sea of Cortez, Loreto


Sea of Cortez, Loreto,
Baja California Sur, Mexico
Written by: Keith Jones

About the Author:

Keith Jones is the founder of Baja Jones Adventures, Jones Adventures, Tigress Tours in Thailand and Butanding Tours in the Philippine Islands and has led thousands of people to Mexico and other interesting locations around the world. He specializes in gray whale tour, blue whale tour, gray and blue whale combo tour, giant panda bear tour, walk a tiger tour, shark tour, African safari tour, African gorilla trek, arctic narwhal tour and Magdalena Bay whale watching tour. He also writes about Baja travel and gray whales. Keith Jones is the author of Gray Whales My Twenty Years of Discovery.



March 2, 2011

8:30 a.m.: We departed from the Loreto harbor dock after waiting 30 minutes for the Marine Park Ranger to arrive at his office to sell us the park admission bracelets.  There was no wind and the ocean was dead calm.  The air temperature was about 70 degrees. Counting myself our group size was 13.   The group consisted of two English

citizens from Wales, 6 Americans from Pennsylvania, New Jersey and Maine, a couple from Argentina and a couple from France.  I’m from Southern California.

We used three boats today.  The boats can hold 5 or six passengers comfortably, with three sitting in formed in place seats and three seated on the raised rear deck that
serves as a bench seat.  Fernando, my Blue Whale expert who has studied Blue whales off of Loreto for 20 years, took the lead with Luis and Tito captaining the other boats.

8:40 a.m.:  We spotted a mother and baby finback whale.  We watched this pair for 30 minutes.  During this time they dived 5 times.  On two occasions, between dives they

approached close to our boat and once the baby swam directly beneath our boat.

9:00 a.m.:  Spotted 2 more individual finback whales, but we chose to continue to follow the mother and baby.

9:15 a.m.:  Spotted multiple blows and decided it was time to leave the mother/baby pair.  We next stayed 20 minutes with a trio of adult finbacks.

9:35 a.m.:  We saw dolphins in the distance and chose to leave the 3 finback whales to go play with dolphins.  This was a pod of 50 to 100 common dolphins.  There were


several pods of dolphins about this same size in this area and we moved amongst them for one hour, enjoying their bow riding antics. 

In all perhaps 500 to 1,000 dolphins were around us during this time.

10:30 a.m.:  Our boat captain suggested we go further south, to the end of Isla Carmen in hopes we might find a blue whale.   Our group was so engrossed in
the activity around us that nobody had asked me where the Blue whales were hiding.

11:00 a.m.:  We arrived at the south end of Isla Carmen and sighted a blue whale.  We were able to stay with this blue whale for an hour.  It was feeding and pretty much


ignored us.  But each time it dived our group played the guessing game of deciding where it would surface.  The captain of the boat I was in, Tito, would motor to where we guessed and then we would float for 5 to 15 minutes.  This blue whale stayed on the surface 3 to 5 minutes between dives and would then dive and
stay down 5 to 15 minutes.  After an hour the Blue whale simply disappeared.

12:10 p.m.:  The other boats called to us that everyone on board was hungry.  They directed us to their location, since we had become separated when my boat went to play with the dolphins.



Trip log
Page three

12:20 p.m.:  As we motored to the small island for lunch, we spotted 2 more finback whales.  Tito stopped and we watched them for five minutes.  When they dived, we left and continued to the lunch rendezvous.


1:15 p.m.:  Lunch ended and we started back toward the Loreto dock.  From this southerly end of Isla Carmen it is ALWAYS a long and bumpy ride north to Loreto.  Today was a great weather day and the swells were small, so the ride was relatively smooth.

1:35 p.m.:  We stopped to observe a humpback whale that sadly had a blue fish net snarled around its tail.  This whale was shy and after 5 minutes we parted ways.

1:50 p.m.:  Spotted two adult finback whales traveling and hunting together.  We watched them for a couple dives, about 20 minutes total before continuing north to Loreto.

3:30 p.m.:  Arrived back at the harbor in Loreto.


Tally of cetacean sightings:
Blue whales – 1 adult
Finback whales -  11 finback whales (one baby)
Humpback whales – 1 adult
Common dolphins – multiple pods, perhaps 500 to 1,000 for the day.

In addition to the whales, we saw many birds that included Blue footed boobies, Frigates, both brown and white Pelicans and at least 20 other species.  Today we also saw several seals and sea lions.

Guide comment:  During the day we were almost always following and watching whales with virtually no search time.  We had a total of 30 minutes boat time after leaving the dolphins before we came across the Blue whale.  It would be almost impossible to have a more whale packed day out here on the Sea of Cortez.

The population of Blue Whales staying near Loreto is estimated to be 12 to 15 this year, a good number.  Fernando has managed to identify half of these from past photos.  The Finback whale population is estimated around 50.  No estimate for Humpback whales.  Two Bryde’s whales have been identified.

After a day like this, all I have to say is I LOVE MY JOB!

This is only a one day trip log because I am usually leading our gray whale watching trips in Laguna Ojo de Liebre while my lucky guides get to enjoy the warm and scenic Sea of Cortez whale watching scene.  I had a day without gray whales, so I was able to go out with this group of 13!  A lucky whale watching number.

Keith



I always think of a diving whale’s tail as “The whale is saying goodbye”.  Because when whale watching at Laguna Ojo de Liebre this always means they are submerging and going off somewhere else, usually away from our boat.